Beveled glass replacement is not any different than other forms of glass. It is held in place by thin pieces of trim molding around the perimeter. The angle is generally inadequate to affect the way the molding fits, and really makes it fit better than straight glass installations because it pinches the glass slightly as a result of angle. Beveled glass trim molding fits nicely because it adapts to the angle as you proceed. Put one piece first and the other three pieces fall into place to create a rattle-proof frame. Even oval-shaped installations function the same, with custom curves or even whole pieces specifically designed for the piece.


Insert the tip of a putty knife beneath the trim anywhere across the perimeter where the glass meets the timber. Gently rock the chisel back and forth to loosen the trim. If it’s a rectangular or square mirror, there will be four pieces. Pry them away one by one using the putty knife. These pieces are narrow, so use caution so that you don’t break them. If they become stubborn and wont loosen, then insert the putty knife vertically between the trim and the framework that’s holding the glass. Stone the chisel back and forth till they loosen, then pull them loose gently. The same goes for oval-shaped glass. There’ll be either one oval-shaped bit of molding, or there can be two or three. Pull out all the remaining nails, using diagonal pliers.


Lift or push out the glass from the rear. In case it will not come out, then consider inserting the tip of the putty knife supporting it and then prying it up. Rock the framework on its border with your hands. The glass will tilt outward. Take care not to drop it since it pops free from the framework. If it’s at a doorway, ask a helper to stand on one side to brace the glass as it comes out. When it comes out, then set it aside. Because of irregularities, it’s best to select the glass to a glass store so that it can be sized for you, utilizing the original piece. This is especially important when the glass is either oval or odd-shaped. If you can not take it with you, then make a template from cardboard and use that to purchase a new piece.


Clean out the trail or distance where the old glass has been eliminated. Start looking for cracks, debris and even old glue inside the framework. Scrape everything away. If the track appears rough or damaged in any way, sand it thoroughly, with a rolled piece of 100-grit sandpaper. If there aren’t any obvious bumps or high spots from the trail, use a chisel to chip or shave them away smoothly. This might be one reason why your old glass might be split or cracked. As the timber expands and contracts, it can cause undue pressure on the glass, causing it to crack or break. Verify the monitor is flat and clean.


Set the replacement glass to the frame. Check it to get fit. It should fit comparatively loosely. This is called “float.” It allows the glass to move very slightly as the doorway contracts and expands. The dealer will most likely already have sized it right, knowing that fact. If it fits snugly into track or hole, take it straight back to the glass store and have it reduced slightly. When it fits nicely with a bit of movement, replace the casting. Place each piece in addition to the glass. Nail them securely in place, using 1-inch brads. Apply a bit of pressure to the glass as you nail each piece of casting. If it’s a solid piece, nail it on precisely the same manner, by holding the glass down tightly and tapping brads to the casting, employing the old nail holes. Fill out the nails holes, using a putty crayon. Alternatively, if you intend to refinish the whole door, use wood putty and sand it away when dry.

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