Rigid foam behind vinyl siding acts as insulation and moisture barrier. Through a remodel, rigid foam can also help level a wall’s surface before the setup of classic vinyl siding. A newer product on the market, solid center or foam-backed vinyl siding, is made up of siding using a polystyrene capital attached. The layer of polystyrene, in addition to acting as an insulator and moisture barrier, stiffens the shingles so that it’s not as inclined to bend or bend compared to conventional vinyl siding. The setup method is similar that of other vinyl productsnonetheless, you need to take into consideration some particulars.
Produce a Watertight Seal
Siding with foam insulating material should not be installed on any wall before any moisture damage was repaired and future moisture penetration was prevented. Prior to installation, level the wall by eliminating existing shingles or adding foam as fill material. Like conventional vinyl siding, solid core siding does no form a watertight seal. Install home wrap to make a water-resistive barrier prior to attaching siding. Installation over existing siding materials such as wood or stucco can be possible with the use of furring strips to make a nailing surfacenonetheless, in order to function as insulation, solid core vinyl must sit straight over the water-resistant barrier and the wall’s sheathing.
Cut the Siding
Cut solid core liners using a circular saw using a fine-tooth blade intended for plywood. Reverse the direction on the blade by installing it backwards at the saw. Place the vinyl side up and set the blade deep enough to cut through the backing.
Fasten the Siding
Just like conventional vinyl siding, don’t nail solid core siding tightly. Instead, allow the board to expand and contract by nailing loosely. The nails must penetrate at least three-quarters of a inch to the substrate. As a result of strong core siding’s thickness, this might require longer nails.
Positioning the Siding
Wherever possible, put in factory-cut results contrary to each other. Factory-cut ends possess the polystyrene financing set back from the edges so the vinyl will suffice. The siding should be positioned so the backing of a single bit butts from the backing of another. No growth gap is required unless you are installing temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, at case an eighth-inch expansion gap is recommended. If it becomes necessary to overlap non-factory ends, create the necessary setback by cutting off a section of backing.
Window and Door Trim
Strong core vinyl siding’s thickness could expect that you construct out openings around doors and windows to properly accommodate the siding. The same issue may be encountered when installing conventional vinyl siding over rigid foam, which adds thickness. If necessary, use wood shims to add thickness to the region across the opening and ensure your trim pieces, such as J-channel, are the appropriate dimension to match the fill depth of this siding.
Install correctly sized utility trim across the surface of the wall. Terrain trim, or undersill trim, is especially designed to receive the cut end of the top class and hold it securely in position whilst allowing room for growth. If necessary, attach shims beneath the utility trim so it will properly receive the siding. Gauge the height of the final class of siding. Cut pieces of siding to this height minus a quarter-inch. Cut the foam layer back two inches from the surface. Punch holes every 6 inches along the top edge with a snap lock punch, creating raised lugs that will help fasten the siding into the trim. Snap the cover into the trim bit.