Cornice boards include architectural interest to windows and behave as crowns for bed canopies. Installation procedures vary based on the type of hardware you are using on the back of this cornice — French cleats, ledgers and fundamental metal brackets are a few of the most popular. Prior to purchasing a cornice, size the piece correctly. The open space on the inside of this cornice needs to be 2 to 4 inches wider than the curtain pole you are using.
Cleats and Ledgers
Hold the cornice board over the window or on the wall, centering it on the curtain pole. Place a spirit level on top of the plank, and adjust the angle until the cornice is level. Mark the bottom of this cornice board or the base of the cut edge of the French cleat with a pencil. Set the cornice board aside.
Place the soul level straight against the mark and draw a straight, level line the exact same length as the cleat or ledger above the window or across the wall.
Rank the French cleat on the wall, cut side up, and line it up with the rule so the pen line hits right where the cleat begins to flare out from the wall. If you are using a ledger, hold the ledger so the top border of this timber is in accord with the rule. Push the pencil to every screw hole to the cleat or ledger, and mark the wall.
Drill pilot holes to the screw marks and strengthen any holes not straight along a stud or header with wall liners.
Bend the ledger or cleat against the wall, lining up the holes at the hardware with the pilot holes in the wall. Secure the ledger or cleat with the screws provided by the producer or with 3-inch drywall screws.
Lock the cornice board over the cleat. To get a ledger, break the cornice board in addition to the ledger, pushing it against the wall so it’s flush. Drill pilot holes on either end of this cornice board, going via the board and the ledger, and each 12 inches throughout the length. Secure the cornice board in place with 2-inch screws or even the hardware provided by the producer.
Hold the cornice board in place with a level resting on top. When the cornice is centered and straight, mark the wall across the upper back edge of this cornice from one end to the other.
Step in 6 inches from the left end of this line, and mark this spot with a pencil. Repeat the procedure on the right side. Mark the place for any additional mounts between these two points as essential. A cornice more than 36 inches broad requires at least one supporting bracket at the center.
Hold the initial bracket against the wall, then lining up the corner with the rule on the wall and positioning the bracket to create an upside-down L. Make a pencil mark on the wall on every screw hole. Repeat this procedure with each additional bracket.
Drill pilot holes to every mark. Drive wall anchors into holes not located on a stud or header.
Secure the brackets to the wall with the provided hardware. Slide the cornice board over the mounts so the top is supported by the mounts. Adjust the cornice board so that it’s concentrated and flush against the wall. Mark the screw holes of the brackets on the bottom of the plank. Remove the cornice, and predrill holes to each mark along the top of the board.
Position the cornice over the brackets again, lining the holes on the bracket up with the holes on the cornice board. Attach the board with screws.